Temagami's Best Routes

By: Hap Wilson

INTRODUCTION

     The over 3,000 km of backcountry canoe routes of Temagami have become a destination for paddlers looking for something a little more rugged. Temagami’s canoe routes are unique as they are considered the oldest, still intact, aboriginal trail system in the world, dating back 5,000 years. These water trails are known as the Nastawgan. Old growth pine, clear, deep waters, the highest points of land in Ontario, and 12 river systems make Temagami one of the best canoeing areas in North America. Temagami has a rich Indigenous prehistory, as well as an Internationally historic environmental background which is ongoing, monitored by Earthroots and the Friends of Temagami.

     I usually don’t write about the “best” of anything because these are my choices, not necessarily a preference by others. However, I can elaborate on those routes that are specifically unique for flatwater canoeing, whitewater, standup paddleboarding, and kayaking – all of which can be found in my guidebook at hapwilson.com.

CANOEING FLATWATER

Route # 6:

This is a go-to route for newbie Temagami paddlers, with three access points to enable a comfortable 7-day loop. It has everything: wide open rocky-shelf campsites, good fishing, old-growth pine trails to explore on Obabika Lake, pictographs and relatively easy portages (for Temagami). Best time to go to beat the busy season – up to early July and after the 3^rd week in August. Ice out can be anywhere from the third week in April to the second week in May.

Route # 4:

There are variations to this route depending on how much time you have and the number of portages you feel like doing. This route gets you away from busy Lake Temagami (mostly) and is known for its beautiful campsites and scenery. A hike up Highrock Lookout is a popular feature along the way. This route, in sections, can be done over a long weekend, or easily extended to a one-week trip. Any time during the canoeing season.

CANOEING WHITEWATER

Note About Water Levels:

These vary considerably. If you want good water then you need to plan a trip after breakup, usually mid-May to late June. After that you will be doing more lining and portaging. Water levels often rise again in late September. 

Lady Evelyn-Makobe River Route: (Part Route #10 & #12)

A floatplane start point to Florence Lake (optional Gamble Lake access) with a trip down Lady Evelyn River, continue on Grays River to the Makobe River. You can end at Elk Lake (the Montreal River isn’t very scenic and has very limited camping). Shuttles are available. Florence is one of the most beautiful Temagami lakes while the upper river is rich in biodiverse life. Several easy rapids and portages take you to the junction of the Lady Evelyn River branches; from there, an easy upriver trek to the Makobe headwaters. This is a small, intimate river best run after breakup until early summer. The Makobe River rapids are tight with few options to eddy, but most difficult runs can be portaged. This is one of my early season favourites.

The Temagami River: (Part Route #1)

By far, this is the most exciting rapid run in the district. It is dam controlled below Cross Lake but you can check the flow from the bridge at River Valley (end point). This is a weekend jaunt with a two-car shuttle required. It’s a fairly short shuttle haul but worth every kilometre! Many of these rapids are “play” rapids at good campsites so you may want to loiter along this route. I used the Temagami River for whitewater training for many years because it offers just about everything from easy swifts to challenging class III’s.

The Sturgeon River: (Route #21)

There is an access point just above Paul Lake on the Upper River but it’s a long haul over a rough logging road to get there. There is the option to fly into Scarecrow Lake and climb the Ishpatina Ridge trail to Ontario’s rooftop to start, with a 7-10 day trek down the Sturgeon, ending at River Valley, or a cross-route back to the village of Temagami (if you fly in). The Sturgeon can be a monster if you hit it too early – the levels rise up to 2-3 meters after the snow melt so I find the best time to run is in June when things have settled down a bit. This is a choice route with lots of playful rapids, falls and easy (mostly) portages.

SCENIC CANOEING ROUTES

The Lady Evelyn River Loop: (Part Route #2 & # 12)

One of the more popular routes anytime during the season, you can do this loop from either Mowat Landing, or Sandy Inlet. Lady Evelyn Lake can get rough (SW prevailing winds) but you have the option to cut across the Sugar Lake to avoid this.

A NOTE ABOUT MAPS: A lot of canoeists are now carrying only large-scale maps, and running into trouble in Temagami. Large maps do not explain the difficulty of the route or portages – that’s why I always suggest my guidebook because all the required information is there. First time paddlers often find portaging in Temagami quite different from other parks.

The portages around 6 waterfalls on the North & South Channels of the Lady Evelyn River are legendary. They can be tough, especially in wet weather, so take your time. Don’t forget to stop at Cabin Falls Ecolodge to sign the logbook and a cup of java. There are several kilometres of old-growth trails accessible to paddlers, from Helen Falls, or Cabin Falls. This route (basic) can be done in 5-7 days, but you may want to stay the whole summer!

Maple Mountain Loop: (Route #14)

This is a classic 1-week canoe trip that takes in the second highest mountain in Temagami. Known as chee-bay-jing, or “place where the soul spirit lives”, was an ancient burial site for the Teme Augama Anishnaabe people, still used today for ceremonial purposes. It’s the best view in Temagami because it rises over a thousand feet above the surrounding area – better than even the view from Ishpatina Ridge. Start point for this loop is at Mowat Landing. There is also lodging here if you book ahead (Mowat Landing Cottages). Wind conditions may slow you down once you enter the main lake, and there are four fishing camps and motorboats present through the season. This doesn’t hamper your trip as you can by-pass the main lake through the Sugar Lake route, and the area along the park is only accessible by canoe. TO NOTE; there has been a fire through part of the route along the chain of lakes north of Tupper but the route is passable. Fires, after all, are part of the ecological cycle in the warm boreal regions. Great campsites, one of the best hikes in the province, and the convenience of a loop designation. 

Wolf Lake Route: (Route #23, optional Route #21)

This route can get busy, especially around Wolf Lake and the Blue Lagoon so if you want to avoid people, you need to go in the fall or early spring. This can be done as a one-way and back route, or a part loop if you take the Sturgeon River and back via two routes returning to Matamagasi Lake. Wolf Lake is one of the most scenic in the district with a rough hiking trail up Wolf Mountain for a panoramic view of the surroundings. The other feature are the vast stands of old-growth red pines. For scenic value, this route is perfect for the photographer, artist or writer. Time to do this route varies depending whether you want to do a loop, or just loiter around Wolf Lake area but you can count on a long weekend to a full 7-day, even 10-day loop.

Temagami Island Old Growth Trails loop: (Part Route # 4)

If you want an easy, carefree canoe loop starting at the Central Lake Temagami Access point, this is the one. Temagami Island old-growth trails are a must; you can loop up through Kokoko Lake and also take in the Devil Mountain lookout. This was used by the Anishnaabe in the mid-1600’s as a lookout for marauding bands of Iroquois warriors. This ends with a picturesque cruise along the eastern cliffs of central Lake Temagami back to your start point. This is an easy 3-day loop with excellent campsites, the privacy of Kokoko Lake and only a couple of easy portages.

KAYAK & SUP ADVENTURES

Even though some of the easier portage routes can be done by the more adventuresome Sup’s and kayakers, here is a few of the choice places to go with the fewest number (if any), portages.

There are several routes marked in my guidebook as well, all with easy access by vehicle, each with their special attributes.

Lakes Temagami & Lady Evelyn Tour: (Route # 27)

You could easily spend all summer on these lakes with only one 75-meter portage dividing several thousand kilometres of undeveloped shoreline. Because the shoreline is undeveloped, it’s not hard to find yourself alone in a quiet bay on any of these four lakes – Temagami, Lady Evelyn, Sucker Gut and Willow Island. Just one beaver dam separates you from the famous hike up Maple Mountain too. One short portage at Frank’s Falls on the South Channel of the Lady Evelyn River will get you to the “Golden Staircase” – Center Falls where there is a natural waterslide and unparallelled swimming. Sand beaches, expansive pine-clad campsites, fishing for lake trout, walleye, smallmouth bass and northern pike, make this tour an all-in-one adventure. Access to this loop is from the Central Lake Temagami Access point, Mowat Landing (there is a 260m portage to Lady Evelyn Lake), or from Sandy Inlet (there is a 300m portage to the beach access from here). A weekend, a week…or a month – you choose the amount of time you want to spend. 

Ottawa River Tour: (Route # 26)

I’ve paddled down the Ottawa a few times, even back when logging companies were still hauling log booms by tugboat. You can start this tour in New Liskeard or at the Lower Notch Dam access point, just south of Cobalt, and end your trip either at the town of Temiskaming, or the town of Mattawa. Portages are relatively short (2). There are so many features here, but the most prevalent are the high hills on both sides of the river. There is also the option to hike up to Devil Rock south of Cobalt – an ancient spiritual site and 300’ cliff overlooking Lake Temiskaming. The coastal trail follows the river as well (Ontario side), so you can get off the river and stretch your legs at various points along the route. Nastawgan Trails Inc. has an excellent trail map available on line which is recommended. There is virtually no development on either side of the river, once past Lake Temiskaming, you get the full sense of the majesty of the Laurentian Highlands. If you get a chance to reach Mattawa – one of the oldest towns in Canada, make sure you visit the local museum.

Wakimika/Obabika Tour: (Part Route # 2 & Part Route # 6)

You can access this route by taking hwy 805 north of River Valley as far as the gate and portage to Obabika Lake (portage crosses the road & the gate will probably be open). You can also park (by permission), at Alex Mathias’s homestead at the end of 805. The road is good up to the gate, but past there it gets a bit ragged but passable. Obabika Lake is beautiful beyond measure; it’s big, has plenty of fabulous campsites, pictograph sites, beaches and rimmed with old-growth white and red pine forests. The trails at Chee-skon Lake at the north end of Obabika are a must. Chee-Skon Lake is home to the region’s most sacred place – spirit or conjuring rock.

You also have the option to paddle up the Wakimika River to Wakimika Lake and explore the location where the 1989 environmental blockades took place. Both lakes are steeped in prehistory. There are no portages on this route except at the start point from the gate of a couple hundred paces.

  All images used are copyright/Hap Wilson